Batian and Nelion are arguably the world’s greatest challenge peaks. It requires technical climbing gear and someone with climbing experience from 1V+ grade. The climb takes between 6 to 7 days or more.
Nelion Peak rises to a height of 5,188 meters/17,021 feet and is rated Grade IV-.
Batian Peak rises to a height of 5,199 meters/17,057 feet and is rated Grade IV +.
You have two options to reach the peaks.
Option 1: The Normal Route (South Ridge to Nelion)
This is located on the southern side of the mountain and accessed from the Austrian Hut. It’s accessible when the sun is on the south side, and offers the best rock climbing. You’ll need to have prior experience in traditional rock climbing.
Season: Christmas to mid-March
Grade: Standard IV
Time: 10-12 hours
Option 2: North Face Standard Route
The least difficult route, it is direct and accessible from the north side of the mountain. It starts in a rocky couloir in about 7 pitches, then traverses left into the amphitheater. It’s accessed from Shiptons Camp or Kami Hut.
Season: June to Early October
Grade: IV+
7-day Program for Climbing Nelion or Batian Peak
Sirimon Route (descent via Naro Moru Route)
7 days, 6 nights
Day 1: We’ll drive from Nairobi to the mountain base for acclimatization and overnight.
- Destination: Nairobi to Nanyuki
- Distance: 194 km/122 miles
- Hiking Time: 4-5 hour drive
- Meals: Lunch and dinner
Day 2: After breakfast, we’ll pass through the park gate and set off up the mountain at a nice and easy pace.
- Destination: Sirimon Gate to Old Moses Camp
- Elevation: 2,650 meters/8,694 feet to 3,350 meters/10,991 feet
- Distance: 9 km/6 miles
- Hiking Time: 3-4 hours
- Habitat: Rainforest
- Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Day 3: Early in the morning, we’ll follow the trail up Likii Valley, with superb views of the greater north. We’ll follow Mckinders Valley to Shiptons Camp.
- Destination: Old Moses to Shiptons Camp
- Elevation: 3,350 meters/10,991 feet to 4,200 meters/13,779 feet
- Distance: 14 km/8.7 miles
- Hiking Time: 4-5 hours
- Habitat: Moorland
- Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Day 4: We’ll trek up along the foot of huge rock walls. From the top, we`ll have excellent views of Mt. Kenya.
- Destination: Shiptons Camp to Austrian Hut
- Elevation: 4,200 meters/13,779 feet to 4,700 meters/15,429 feet
- Distance: 7 km/4.35 miles
- Hiking Time: 3-4 hours
- Habitat: Rock and ice
- Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Day 5: We’ll climb the southeast face of Nelion. The trek goes across the Lewis Glacier to the base of the peaks and from the base to the summit of Nelion and Batian Peaks.
- Destination: Austrian Hut to Nelion and Batian and descent to Mckinders Camp
- Elevation: 4,700 meters/15,419 feet to 5,200 meters/17,060 feet
- Distance: 12 pitches
- Climbing Time: 10-12 hours
- Habitats: Glacier and rock
- Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Day 6: We’ll descend leisurely to Met Station Camp.
- Destination: Mckinders to Met Station
- Elevation: 4,300 meters/14,100 feet to 3,048 meters/10,000 feet
- Distance: 14 km/8.7 miles
- Hiking Time: 4 hours
- Habitat: Rock and ice
- Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Day 7: We’ll descend and celebrate with champagne at the park gate.
- Destination: Met Station to Naro Moru Gate to Nairobi
- Elevation: 3,048 meters/10,000 feet to 1,800 meters/5,905 feet
- Distance: 9 km/6 miles
- Hiking Time: 2 hours
- Habitat: Rainforest
- Meals: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Equipment
We will provide equipment such as ice axes, carabiners, harnesses, stoppers, helmets, slings, and ropes.
For personal equipment recommendations, please see Recommended Mountain Equipment.